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Part II: Journey Through Time in Historic Cairo (Travoltage)

My name is Ikbal, and this is the second part of my Egyptian adventure for ishabil.com—a deep dive into the historical and cultural heart of Cairo, far from the modern bustle.
After a brief wait at the airport, our arranged car arrived. The journey into Cairo was fascinating, starting through beautiful suburbs before we plunged into the older districts. The car then entered a long tunnel running beneath the city. We drove for kilometers, the traffic and vehicle exhaust within the tunnel making it a somewhat challenging, yet memorable, experience.
Finally, we reached the vicinity of our hostel, where we were met by our local host, Shakir Azhari. He had already arranged our necessities: currency exchange and local SIM cards. We dropped our bags on the top floor of the five-story building that housed our hostel.
It was already noon, so we decided to eat before starting our tour. We visited a nearby Arabic restaurant. Egyptian portions are known to be generous, which suited us well!
Our first historical stop, via taxi, was the magnificent Saladin Citadel of Cairo .
Constructed during the medieval Islamic era, this hilltop fortress is a stunning display of Egyptian imperial history and architectural prowess. Climbing up offered panoramic views of Cairo. Throughout the complex, we could see the influences of various periods of Egyptian history.
Inside the Citadel, we visited the Mosque of Muhammad Ali , a breathtaking structure built with astonishing white marble, considered a prime example of Ottoman architecture. From its elevated position, we enjoyed a near 360-degree view of the sprawling city. We also toured the Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque and were amazed by the Military Museum, which housed a fascinating display of aircraft and tanks used in Egyptian wars.
The Citadel visit truly felt like stepping back in time.
From the Citadel, we took an auto-rickshaw to visit the Shrine of Imam Al-Shafi'i (Maqbara).
Imam Shafi'i is the founder of one of the four schools of Sunni Islamic jurisprudence, making his resting place a hugely significant site in Islamic history. Built in the 12th century, the Maqbara is a beautiful example of Ayyubid architecture. We admired the large, carved, iron-clad wooden dome atop the shrine—reputed to be one of the largest wooden domes in Egypt.
Inside, we saw prayer niches, an exquisitely decorated ceiling, and the tomb of Imam Shafi'i. Standing at the final resting place of such a towering figure in Islamic history was an unforgettable, serene experience.
Stepping out, we walked a bit, noticing that the entire neighborhood was filled with other tombs (maqbaras). Shakir provided insightful commentary on the area’s history.
We caught another auto-rickshaw and headed to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC).
This museum houses a vast collection spanning Egypt's history, from the Pharaonic era right through to the Islamic period. Inside, we were immediately surrounded by mummies, sarcophagi, statues, and decorative artifacts . Each exhibit told a story about ancient Egyptian life and their beliefs about the afterlife. The mummies themselves are displayed in a dedicated lower floor. I even saw the mummy believed to be the Pharaoh mentioned in the Quran. Though relatively new, the museum is expansive, and both its architecture and display quality are world-class.
Next, we visited the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As. This is the oldest mosque in Egypt and one of the first ever built in Africa, dating back to the 7th century. It is a stunning display of early Islamic art and architecture.
Upon entering, we were struck by the expansive courtyard. In the center, there is a prominent section for ablution (washing). The courtyard is surrounded by colonnades and small, curved, iron-clad minarets, representing traditional Islamic architectural styles. The interior walls were adorned with intricate Islamic calligraphy, and colorful carpets covered the floor. The atmosphere of tranquility and worship was profoundly appealing. This mosque is not just a place of prayer; it is a critical piece of Egyptian history and culture, offering a wonderful glimpse into Egypt's Islamic heritage.
Our final spiritual stop was the Al-Sayyida Nafisa Mosque. Built during the Fatimid Caliphate in the 11th century, the mosque is near the tomb of Sayyida Nafisa, the granddaughter of Imam Ja'far al-Sadiq. Known as 'Nafeesathu Beevi' in our home country, her beautifully adorned tomb was a magnificent sight.
From there, we walked through the old streets, pausing for a cup of tea, before reaching the famous Khan Al-Khalili Market .
We walked through an adjacent market before entering Khan Al-Khalili, a must-see for any visitor to Cairo. It was a bustling maze filled with handicrafts, leather goods, spices, and souvenirs. Khan Al-Khalili is more than just a market; it's a vibrant opportunity to experience the pulse of Egyptian daily life and culture.
Our very last stop was the Al-Hussein Mosque, located near the market. The mosque is famous because it houses the tomb (Maqbara) of Imam Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, and the son of Ali and Fatima. His martyrdom is a pivotal event in Shia history. The tomb is surrounded by mirrored walls, though the grave itself is not directly visible. Praying near the Maqbara is believed to bring peace and comfort.
Tired but immensely satisfied, we called it a day. We had dinner, returned to the hostel, and drifted off to sleep. My mind was already filled with anticipation for the next day's great wonders: the Pyramids and the Nile River.

Arrival and the Underground Journey

🏰 Citadel: A Medieval Marvel

🕌 The Legacy of Imam Shafi'i

📜 From Pharaohs to Modernity: The National Museum

🕋 Amr ibn al-As Mosque: Africa's First

🌹 The Sayyida Nafisa Shrine and Khan Al-Khalili

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