My name is Ikbal, and this "Travoltage" chronicles an unforgettable three-day journey through the diverse landscape of Saudi Arabia’s South: a trip covering over 1600 kilometers by road, scaling the heights of Abha, and sailing to the remote Farasan Islands.
An unexpected break from work led to a call from my colleague, Dr. Ijas, proposing a spontaneous trip. We debated between the cool heights of Abha and the remote Farasan Islands (50 km off the Jizan coast). Realizing they were on a similar route, and having enough time, we decided to tackle both! Quickly gathering our friends Rafi and Ansari, we finalized the itinerary and set off the next morning.
Day 1: From the Coast to the Cool Peaks (Jeddah to Abha to Jizan)
We started at 6:00 AM in Dr. Ijas’s car. The Jeddah-Jizan highway stretched before us, and as the sun rose, we sped past the city limits.
The Oasis of Watermelons
For a long stretch, the roadsides were lined with vast watermelon farms. We stopped at one stall run by a Sudanese worker who showed us watermelons ranging from 5 to 30 Riyals. After purchasing one and snapping a few photos of the surprising greenery in the desert, we continued.
After refueling and taking a short break at a gas station around 7:30 AM, we were struck by the vibrant green vegetation—the result of recent rain in the desert. The vast stretches of greenery, scattered with camels and temporary Bedouin settlements, offered a stunning spectacle.
A Beachside Feast and a Change of Plan
We stopped for breakfast at 9:00 AM near Al Lith, finding a busy Boofiya (local cafeteria) run by Malayalis, where we enjoyed sandwiches and tea. By 11:00 AM, we had passed Al Qunfudhah. Realizing we were ahead of schedule, we adjusted our plan: we would drive straight to Abha today, and then head to Jizan for the night.
We found a perfect spot for lunch near the coast at Al Birk. The beach had open, thatched huts with covered roofs and, thankfully, clean restroom facilities nearby. Spreading a carpet on the sand, we enjoyed the delicious homemade Chicken Mandi prepared by Ansari.
The Ascent to Rijal Alma
Leaving the highway at Al Birk, we headed inland towards Abha. Initially, the road was a challenging climb, but soon it flattened into a plateau covered with endless black volcanic rocks. Further on, the road began twisting and turning through the mountains, cutting through landscapes that felt more like a green village in Tamil Nadu than the Saudi interior.
We bypassed Mahayil and approached the historic village of Rijal Alma . We passed through a small town and a tunnel before descending into the village. Since it was off-season, we found very few tourists there.
This entire mountainside village is a marvel of architecture, with structures up to eight stories high, some dating back 900 years. We explored the museum and the unique structures, took photos, and grabbed a quick tea before moving on. We briefly visited a nearby Honey Refinery complex, noting the large windmill and wooden buildings before returning to the main road.
The Terrifying Abha Pass
The road we took towards Abha led us to an unexpectedly steep and terrifying mountain pass. The sudden, sharp ascent and dramatic curves were shocking. We genuinely feared the car might stall or we might be in danger—it was the most frightening mountain road I had ever encountered.
Finally, reaching the summit brought immense relief. We stopped, got out, and were greeted by a blast of cold air, stunning mountain views, and dozens of playful monkeys. We had arrived at Jabal Soudah, one of Abha's most beautiful mountainous areas. We drove through the lush greenery, though the cable cars were closed for the off-season.
We eventually spotted the beautiful city of Abha spread out below us like a basin.
Sunset at Abu Khayal Park
We arrived in the city and headed straight to Abu Khayal Park, a stunning, terraced hillside garden overflowing with flowers and greenery. The timing was perfect for sunset. We enjoyed the view of the sprawling city below, the adjacent green mountains, and the dormant cable car lines, savoring the cool mountain evening.
Next, we visited Abha’s famous Art Street. This area is enchanting during the peak season when the Jacaranda trees are in bloom. We walked around, appreciating the coolness, and settled in the park to drink tea with chips we had brought from home—a perfect ending to the day.
As the night grew colder, we began the 200 km drive down to Jizan. Though a major portion was mountainous, the roads were much safer than the previous pass. We reached Jizan at 10:30 PM, checked into a hotel near the seaport, had dinner, and went to sleep, eager for our sea adventure.
Day 2: Farasan Island – Paradise Found, Then Trapped
The Free Ferry to the Islands
We woke up early and rushed to the ferry office to get tickets for the Farasan Islands. We planned to take the car, but we learned that vehicle transport must be booked in advance. So, we parked the car and bought our tickets for the free ferry ride. Yes, a one-and-a-half-hour sea journey covering 50 kilometers is completely free! We also secured our return ticket for 3:00 PM.
We boarded the large ferry, which accommodates about 40 cars and 800 passengers, complete with separate areas for women and a cafeteria. Soon, we were in the open sea, passing uninhabited islands and cargo ships. We saw the ferry heading back to Jizan and eventually, the beautiful Farasan Islands emerged.
Touring the Island
Upon docking, a Bangladeshi driver approached us, offering to take us on a tour and guarantee our timely return for the 3:00 PM ferry. We accepted and began exploring.
Al Qassar Heritage Village: Our first stop was this ancient settlement. The old houses and village structures were beautifully preserved.
Breakfast: We stopped at a Kerala restaurant in Farasan town for breakfast (Parotta and other items).
The Beach with Sculptures: We visited a beach where rock formations looked like beautiful shell and pearl sculptures (though they were actually artificial).
Madhi Bridge: We stopped beneath the bridge leading to Sajid Island—a beautiful spot for photography with the sea and seabirds.
The Hidden Gem
Our driver then drove up a seaside hill and slammed the brakes. Though startling, the view that greeted us was mesmerizing: a turquoise-blue sea, white sandy beaches, and several boats anchored below. It was a completely unexpected and stunning sight. It was then that we realized the blessing of not bringing our car—had we driven, we would never have found these hidden, remote treasures.
We spent time enjoying the breeze before driving to a large, beautiful seaside garden where we waded into the sea and took photos in front of the "Farasan" sign.
Stranded on the Island
Time was pressing. We hurried back to the port. Soon after we arrived, we received shocking news: due to high winds and rough seas, the 3:00 PM ferry was canceled! We waited anxiously, hoping the 4:30 PM ferry would run, but the announcement came: it was canceled too!
We were stranded on the island. With no safe small boats running and the mainland 50 km away, we were utterly stuck.
Day 3: Island Life and the Long Drive Home
Finding Shelter and Food
Stranded and hungry (having only eaten breakfast), our immediate focus shifted. We knew we had to reach Farasan Town, 10 km away. We found a shared van for 5 Riyals each.
First, we secured tickets for the next morning’s ferry. Then, we found a Broast shop run by people from Vengara, Kerala. While waiting for our food, we chatted with the staff and learned a crucial fact: ferry cancellations are common here, and locals traveling to the mainland usually head there two days early!
With our hunger satisfied, we searched for accommodation and found a reasonably priced room since it was off-season. Since our luggage was still in the car in Jizan, we had to make do with what we had.
A Community Feel
We went out at night to walk around the Souq. We ran into many people we had seen on the morning ferry. The island felt like a close-knit village. Even our driver found us! He promised to drop us at the port early the next morning.
We visited the Fish Market but didn't buy anything as the selection was poor. Since the next day was the start of Ramadan (Fasting), we bought fruits, juice, and Shawarma for Suhoor and went back to the room.
We woke up before the call to prayer, ate our Suhoor, and performed Fajr prayer. Our Bangladeshi driver arrived as promised, and we reached the port just as the ferry was ready.
The ferry left on time and, moving at a good speed, reached Jizan by 9:00 AM. We retrieved our car and began the over 700 km drive back to Jeddah.
The roads were relatively empty due to the fasting month. We passed through Jizan, saw the turnoff for Abha (Al Darb), and stopped near Al Qunfudhah for prayer and a short rest, having completed half the journey. A final stop for a watermelon on the roadside before finally reaching Jeddah around 6:00 PM.
This journey, filled with the contrasting cold of Abha’s heights, the beauty of the Red Sea, the sudden scare of the mountain pass, and the adventure of being stranded on Farasan, was truly an unforgettable chapter.
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