This is the story of an unforgettable three-day journey through the diverse, beautiful landscapes of Saudi Arabia’s southern region. An unexpected break from the reception desk at Taj Polyclinic led to a sudden phone call from my good friend and colleague, Dr. Ijas. He proposed a spontaneous road trip. At first, we debated between visiting the freezing, cool mountains of Abha or the remote, peaceful Farasan Islands, which sit 50 kilometers off the Jizan coast. Realizing they were on a similar route, and having enough free time, we bravely decided to tackle both! We quickly gathered our friends Rafi and Ansari, finalized a massive 1600-kilometer itinerary, and set off early the very next morning.
AISHABIL TRIP AT A GLANCE
- 📍 Destination: Abha and Farasan Islands, Saudi Arabia
- 📅 Date of Journey: March 21 to 23 , 2023
- 🚆 Transport Mode: Car and Public Ferry
- 👥 Companions: Dr. Ijas, Rafi, and Ansari
Day 1: From the Coast to the Cool Peaks (Jeddah to Abha to Jizan)
We started our grand adventure at 6:00 AM sharp in Dr. Ijas’s comfortable car. The long Jeddah-Jizan highway stretched out before us like a dark ribbon. As the bright morning sun slowly rose in the sky, we sped past the city limits of Jeddah, leaving the busy city life behind us. We were all very excited for the open road.
The Oasis of Watermelons
For a very long stretch of the drive, the roadsides were beautifully lined with vast watermelon farms. In the middle of the dry land, seeing so much fruit was a wonderful surprise. We stopped at one small farm stall run by a friendly Sudanese worker. He smiled and proudly showed us his fresh watermelons, with prices ranging from just 5 to 30 Riyals depending on the size. We happily purchased a large one and spent a few minutes snapping photos of this surprising, bright greenery growing right in the desert sands.
💡 ishabil fact
When heavy rain falls in the dry desert, seeds that have been sleeping in the sand for years suddenly sprout! This creates massive, temporary fields of vibrant green grass that Bedouin farmers use to feed their camels.
After refueling the car and taking a short, relaxing break at a gas station around 7:30 AM, we noticed something amazing. The land was completely covered in vibrant green vegetation. This was the beautiful result of recent heavy rain in the area. The vast stretches of fresh green grass, scattered with wandering camels and the temporary tents of Bedouin settlements, offered a truly stunning spectacle that we could not stop looking at from the car windows.
A Beachside Feast and a Change of Plan
By 9:00 AM, our stomachs were rumbling loudly, so we stopped for breakfast near the town of Al Lith. We were very happy to find a busy Boofiya (a local cafeteria) run by Malayalis. Since my home is in Kerala, hearing the familiar Malayalam language and drinking their hot, sweet tea with fresh sandwiches felt amazing. By 11:00 AM, we had already passed Al Qunfudhah. Realizing we were driving fast and were ahead of our planned schedule, we adjusted our whole plan. We decided we would drive straight up to the high mountains of Abha today, and then head down to Jizan for the night.
We found a perfect, quiet spot for our lunch near the sea coast at Al Birk. The beach here had lovely open, thatched huts with covered roofs to protect us from the hot sun. Thankfully, there were also very clean restroom facilities nearby. We spread a large, soft carpet on the warm sand. We all sat together and enjoyed a delicious, homemade Chicken Mandi that our friend Ansari had lovingly prepared for us. Eating tasty food by the sea with good friends is simply the best feeling.
The Ascent to Rijal Alma
Leaving the fast highway at Al Birk, we turned and headed inland towards the tall mountains of Abha. Initially, the road was a slow, challenging climb. But soon, it flattened out into a wide plateau completely covered with endless, dark black volcanic rocks. It looked like the surface of another planet! Further on, the road began twisting and turning sharply through the high mountains. We drove through landscapes that felt much more like a lush green, rainy village in India than the dry Saudi interior we were used to.
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We drove past Mahayil and soon approached the very historic village of Rijal Alma. We passed through a quiet small town and a dark mountain tunnel before finally descending into the old village. Because it was the off-season for tourism, we found very few tourists there. It felt like we had the whole ancient place to ourselves to explore.
This entire mountainside village is a true marvel of old engineering. The beautiful buildings are made of pure stone and stand up to eight stories high. Some of these amazing structures date back 900 years! We walked around, explored the local museum, and admired the unique, colorful designs. We took many photos and grabbed a quick, hot cup of tea before moving on. We also briefly visited a nearby Honey Refinery complex, where we saw a large windmill and old wooden buildings, before returning to the main mountain road.
The Terrifying Abha Pass
The road we took next towards Abha led us to an unexpectedly steep and terrifying mountain pass. The sudden, sharp ascent and the dramatic, tight curves were very shocking. The road just kept going straight up into the clouds! We genuinely feared the car engine might stall or we might slide backwards into danger. It was honestly the most frightening mountain road I had ever encountered in my life.
📌 ishabil tips
When driving up very steep mountain passes in Saudi Arabia, always turn off your car's air conditioning! This gives your engine much more power to climb safely without stalling on the sharp curves.
Finally, reaching the summit of the mountain brought immense relief to all of us. We stopped the car, stepped out, and were instantly greeted by a freezing blast of cold air. The stunning mountain views from the top were breathtaking. We were also welcomed by dozens of playful, wild monkeys running around the rocks! We had successfully arrived at Jabal Soudah, which is known as one of Abha's highest and most beautiful areas. We drove slowly through the thick, lush greenery. The famous cable cars were closed because it was the off-season, but the natural beauty was more than enough. Eventually, we looked down and spotted the beautiful, glowing city of Abha spread out far below us like a giant bowl.
Sunset at Abu Khayal Park
We drove down into the city and headed straight to Abu Khayal Park. This is a stunning, terraced hillside garden overflowing with bright flowers and thick green trees. Our timing was absolutely perfect for the sunset. We stood together and enjoyed the wide view of the sprawling city below us, the adjacent green mountains, and the dormant cable car lines. We happily savored the cool, crisp mountain evening air.
Next, we visited Abha’s famous Art Street. This lovely area is truly enchanting during the peak season when the purple Jacaranda trees are in full bloom. We walked around, appreciating the lovely weather. Then, we settled down on the grass in a nearby park to drink warm tea with some crunchy chips we had brought all the way from home. It was a perfect, peaceful ending to a very long day of driving.
As the night grew much colder, we got back into the car and began the long 200-kilometer drive down to Jizan. Even though a major portion of this road was mountainous, the roads were wide, well-lit, and much safer than the terrifying pass we took earlier. We reached the warm, humid city of Jizan at 10:30 PM. We quickly checked into a comfortable hotel near the seaport, had a late dinner, and went to sleep right away. We were so eager for our big sea adventure the next morning.
Day 2: Farasan Island – Paradise Found, Then Trapped
The Free Ferry to the Islands
We woke up very early the next morning and rushed to the busy ferry office to get our tickets for the Farasan Islands. We originally planned to take our car on the ship, but we quickly learned that vehicle transport must be booked many days in advance. So, we safely parked Dr. Ijas's car at the port and bought passenger tickets. The best part? The ferry ride is completely free! Yes, a massive one-and-a-half-hour sea journey covering 50 kilometers costs zero Riyals. We also made sure to secure our return tickets for 3:00 PM later that afternoon.
We boarded the large, impressive ferry. It is big enough to accommodate about 40 cars and 800 passengers! It is complete with comfortable seating, separate areas for women and families, and a nice little cafeteria. Soon, the horn blew, and we were out in the deep open sea. We passed tiny, uninhabited sandy islands and massive cargo ships. We looked back and saw the mainland heading away from us. Eventually, the beautiful, flat Farasan Islands emerged on the bright horizon.
Touring the Beautiful Island
Upon docking at the island's port, a friendly Bangladeshi driver approached our group. He offered to take us on a full guided tour in his van and, most importantly, he promised to guarantee our timely return to the port for the 3:00 PM ferry. We gladly accepted his offer and began our island exploration.
Our first stop was the Al Qassar Heritage Village. This is an ancient settlement made of coral and stone. The old houses, narrow alleys, and village structures were beautifully preserved. It felt like walking back in time. After that, our stomachs reminded us it was time to eat. We stopped at a small Kerala restaurant right in the middle of Farasan town for a heavy breakfast. We ate hot, flaky parottas and spicy curries to get our energy back.
Next, we visited a unique beach where massive rock formations looked exactly like beautiful giant shells and pearl sculptures. Even though we later learned they were artificial, they were amazing to look at! After taking photos there, we stopped beneath the huge Madhi Bridge. This long bridge leads to Sajid Island. It is a beautiful, peaceful spot for photography, with the clear blue sea flowing underneath and white seabirds flying all around us in the sky.
The Hidden Gem
Our driver then told us he had a surprise. He drove up a steep, rocky seaside hill and suddenly slammed the brakes! Though it was startling, the view that greeted us over the edge was absolutely mesmerizing. We looked down at a bright turquoise-blue sea, perfect white sandy beaches, and several small wooden boats anchored in the clear water below. It was a completely unexpected and stunning hidden sight.
It was at that exact moment we realized the huge blessing of not bringing our own car. Had we driven ourselves, we would have stuck to the main, boring roads and we would never have found these hidden, remote treasures. Our local driver knew all the best secrets! We spent a long time there, just enjoying the strong, salty ocean breeze. Afterwards, we drove to a large, beautiful seaside garden where we took off our shoes, waded into the warm sea water, and took funny group photos in front of the giant "Farasan" welcome sign.
Stranded on the Island!
Time was pressing, and we did not want to miss our boat. We hurried back to the port, arriving with time to spare. But soon after we walked into the waiting room, we received very shocking news. Because of suddenly high winds and very rough sea waves, the 3:00 PM return ferry was completely canceled! We sat down and waited anxiously, hoping and praying that the next 4:30 PM ferry would still run. But soon, the loud speaker crackled, and the bad announcement came: it was canceled too!
😂 ishabil fun
When we heard the cancellation, we all just looked at each other in total shock. We had no extra clothes, no toothbrushes, and all our money and bags were locked in the car 50 kilometers across the ocean! We had to laugh at our terrible luck.
We were officially stranded on the island. With no safe small boats allowed to run in the bad weather, and the mainland a full 50 kilometers away across the rough ocean, we were utterly stuck.
Day 3: Island Life and the Long Drive Home
Finding Shelter and Food
Stranded and very hungry—since we had only eaten breakfast hours ago—our immediate focus shifted from tourism to survival! We knew we had to reach the main Farasan Town, which was about 10 kilometers away from the quiet port. We found a small shared van that took us there for just 5 Riyals each. First things first, we went straight to the local office and successfully secured guaranteed tickets for the next morning’s ferry ride.
Then, we followed our noses and found a hot Broast chicken shop. To my surprise, it was run by friendly people from Vengara, a town back in the Malappuram district in India, very close to my own home village! While eagerly waiting for our crispy chicken and fries, we chatted with the staff in our native tongue. They told us a very crucial fact about island life.
📌 ishabil tips
Ferry cancellations are very common in Farasan due to the unpredictable winds. If you are a tourist who has a flight to catch from the mainland, always plan to leave the island two full days early so you don't get stuck and miss your plane!
With our hunger fully satisfied, we walked around the quiet town to search for accommodation. Thankfully, because it was the off-season, we found a clean, reasonably priced room very quickly. Since all our heavy luggage and fresh clothes were still locked in the car back in Jizan, we just had to make do with what we were wearing. We washed our faces and prepared for a funny night on the island.
A Community Feel in the Souq
We went out later at night to walk around the lively local Souq (market). We ran into many familiar faces—people we had seen on the morning ferry who were also stranded just like us. The island felt like a close-knit, friendly village where everyone shared the same problem. Amazingly, even our Bangladeshi driver from earlier in the day found us in the crowd! He kindly promised to come to our hotel and drop us at the port early the next morning.
We visited the local Fish Market, hoping to see big catches, but we didn't buy anything as the selection was quite poor that night. Since the very next day was the official start of the holy month of Ramadan, which meant fasting from sunrise to sunset, we bought plenty of fresh fruits, sweet juice, and tasty chicken Shawarma for our Suhoor (the pre-dawn meal) and went back to our simple room to sleep.
The Journey Back to Jeddah
We woke up very early, long before the morning call to prayer. We ate our Suhoor meal together in the room and performed our Fajr prayer. Our faithful driver arrived outside exactly as promised, and we reached the busy port just as the massive ferry was getting ready to load its passengers.
Thankfully, the sea was calm again. The ferry left right on time and, moving at a very good speed through the blue water, safely reached the Jizan port by 9:00 AM. We practically ran to retrieve our car. It was right where we left it. We filled the tank with gas and quickly began the massive, over 700-kilometer drive back north towards Jeddah.
The long highways were relatively empty and peaceful because it was the first day of the fasting month. We drove smoothly, passed through the outskirts of Jizan, saw the familiar turnoff for the Abha mountain road near Al Darb, and kept going straight. We finally stopped near Al Qunfudhah for our afternoon prayer and a short, much-needed rest, realizing we had completed exactly half of the return journey. We made one final stop to buy another fresh watermelon on the dusty roadside before finally reaching the busy streets of Jeddah around 6:00 PM.
This spontaneous three-day journey was filled with so many incredible extremes. We experienced the freezing, contrasting cold of Abha’s high mountains, the calm, flat beauty of the Red Sea coast, the sudden heart-pounding scare of the steep mountain pass, and the completely unexpected adventure of being stranded on Farasan Island. Sharing this wild trip with great friends made it truly an unforgettable chapter in my travel diary.
Read my Saudi Arabia Chronicles
As an expat living here for years, I treat every weekend and break as an opportunity to discover the rich cultural heritage and incredible geography of Saudi Arabia.
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- 📍 Al Baha: Walking Through the Misty Mountain Villages
- 📍 Yanbu Flower Show: A Vibrant Spectacle by the Coast
- 📍 Al Wahba Crater: Standing Next to the Volcanic Wonder
- 🕌 Holy Cities & Rail Experience:
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- Read my all travel stories
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